Photography Friday – The Triangle: Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO
Again, I’m realizing that Photography Friday is a lot like the English Language Composition Course I teach – everything is interrelated so there is really no ONE starting point. Just as I start to write about one topic, it bleeds into knowing something about another topic which is, in itself, a whole world of its own that’s related to about 3 other things you need to know. [and it makes me feel better that I spent over a year learning my camera and photography before I started accepting money for taking pictures]
Three weeks ago I tried to shed some light on Focus. Toward the end of the basics of settings on your camera, I realized I wanted to tell you some things about how Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO affect your focus. But, then you need to know Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO which is a large thing to digest. First, again let me say, go buy Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. I borrowed a friend’s copy, read it cover to cover twice, and then returned hers and bought my own.
Light is what really makes an image. You have to know that before you can take a picture. Just as our eyes need light to see an image, your camera needs light to see an image. You adjust light within your camera by how you set Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.
Shutter Speed
The shutter of your camera is what opens to allow light to pass through to the inner workings (I’ll spare you the mumbo jumbo…and myself from looking it up) of the camera to the sensor that records your image. How long your shutter stays open is one factor in determining how much light gets to your sensor. So, if you have your shutter speed set on 1/20 you are allowing more light into your camera than if your setting is at 1/250. At 1/20 your shutter is staying open for one twentieth of a second while at 1/250 it is open for only one two hundred fiftieths of a second (is that written out correctly? I teach English…)
Aperture
The aperture of your camera is like the pupil of your eye. The bigger it is, the more light comes in. The smaller the number, the bigger the opening – for instance, 2.8 is open wider than 11 which is wider than 22.
ISO
This is the sensitivity of the sensor to accept light. The lower the number, the more light is needed to take an image.
What setting is best?
There is no one right answer to this (if there were, all cameras would come with one option). It all depends on what you’re photographing, where, when, and what look you want. I normally choose my aperture first, set my ISO next, and then adjust my shutter speed to make sure it’s fast enough to keep from having motion blur. If I can’t keep a fast enough shutter speed (I need more light for my image), I’ll adjust the ISO to keep my shutter fast enough.
The best way to learn this is to play with it. Set your camera on manual mode (see camera manual if you need to). Set your camera on ISO 400 (just a general number), Shutter 1/125, Aperture 2.8. Now, adjust your aperture by steps to see how it affects the picture. Go back to 2.8 and adjust shutter up and down to see what happens to your picture. Go back to 2.8 & 1/125 and play with your ISO. This is where I took a lot of pictures of flowers and items around my house. I needed to SEE how the triangle worked together.
Precautions and application to focus:
Shutter Speed
If your shutter speed is too low, you risk having motion blur. Motion blur is when your shutter is open and thus recording the image while someone in the image moves. It can be an artistic technique, but for most portraits, you want your subject in sharp focus, and a slight motion blur (which can happen from you slightly moving your hand when you press the shutter) can make your image out of focus. The general rule is to have your shutter twice your focal length (oh, there’s another “thing to know” that hasn’t been covered. Focal length = how long your lens is. 50mm = you generally don’t want slower than 1/100 for shutter. 70mm = not slower than 1/140. The complication comes into crop frame cameras – Google that one J).
Aperture
When your aperture is wide, you have a narrow depth of field (DOF = how much of what you are shooting that is in focus). For instance, when shooting 1.4 at a newborn session, if I focus on the baby’s eye for a close up of the face, the nose is going to be out of focus because my depth of field is shallow. If I scoot back to get the whole baby in the frame, it is very likely that the eyes and nose will be in focus, but the feet will not be. I like wide open apertures because they make the background blurry (called bokeh). If you’re trying to figure out the DOF, there are cool apps for your iPhone (not that I have one, but one day…) and on the computer. Use the widest aperture my lens allows on all newborn sessions and single person portraits. With multiple children and family sessions, I do change my aperture to match the pose – otherwise the person in the back is probably going to be out of focus.
ISO
The higher ISO you use (which allows more light into your camera), the more noise (grainy stuff) you’re going to see in your picture. Different cameras handle differently, so play around with your ISO to see how it affects your images. There are plug ins for Photoshop that help reduce noise in an image. These plug ins soften the image, so they can have an indirect affect on the focus of the image.





